12 Amazing Guide to Gutters Installation
If your home does not have a gutter, rainwater that falls from the roof and strikes the ground may harm your siding and trimmings. Water could also leak into your basement if you don’t have one. Before selecting a gutter contractor, make sure you do your own research. Having a basic awareness of gutters installation best practices is beneficial in the end. This can assist you in determining whether the gutter installer is capable of doing the task.
Professionals usually install gutters, but there’s no reason you can’t do it yourself. All of the materials and accessories can be found in home improvement stores, lumberyards, and roofing supply stores. If you’re going to repair your gutters and downspouts, you might as well enhance your rainwater system’s overall appearance and performance.
Many homeowners keep putting up with their rusted, leaky gutters because they don’t believe that the benefits of new gutters offset the effort required to repair them. That’s why we are going to demonstrate how lovely gutters can be and how simple they are to install.
Layout lines should be snapped together.
On the 1 1/4-inch below the metal drip-edge flashing, mark the highest point of the gutter run on the fascia. Mark the low end of the gutter run at the opposite end of the fascia (or at the downspout position if one is in the middle of the run), keeping in mind that the slope should be around 12 inch for every 10 feet of run. Between the two points, draw a chalk line.
PS: Before installing the gutters, inspect the fascia for rot and fix it if required.
Fascia brackets should be attached.
Behind the fascia, look for the rafter tails; they’re usually 16 inches apart. Make a mark on every other rafter tail at the chalk line. At each location, drill an 1/8-inch pilot hole through the fascia and into the rafter tail. Fasten fascia brackets with 1/4-inch stainless steel lag screws long enough to penetrate rafters 2 inches.
Install the gutter into the lag-screwed brackets on the fascia Rotate the gutter upward until the back edge of the gutter catches on the hooks at the top of the brackets’ backs. Drill a 3/16-inch-diameter hole in the front edge of the gutter through the screw-mounting hole in each bracket. A 1-inch-long #8-32 stainless steel machine screw and flanged nut secure the gutter to the bracket.
Using Gutters and Hangers That Are Appropriate for Your Area
Gutters safeguard your roof from moisture damage, which is why you should choose gutter components that can resist wear and tear as well as handle the normal amount of rainfall in your area. When it comes to most home improvement tasks, there is no such thing as a one-size-fits-all solution, and gutter installation projects are no exception.
Here’s a quick rundown of the most common gutter materials and gutter hangers to get you started:
Materials for Gutters
Aluminum — Because aluminum gutters are affordable, lightweight, and corrosion-resistant, they are the most popular gutter on the market.
Galvanized Steel – Galvanized steel has a thin coating of zinc to protect it against corrosion. However, the coating will wear away over time, leaving the gutters prone to corrosion.
Copper – Copper gutters are one of the most lasting, but they’re also one of the most expensive. They have a minimum life expectancy of 50 years.
Spikes and ferrules – A spike is inserted through a metal tube or ferrule to secure this inexpensive gutter hanger to the fascia. Most contractors advise against using spikes and ferrules to attach gutters to wooden fascia boards on roofing systems because the break in the fascia board exposes it to moisture damage.
Brackets and straps – Half-round gutters are installed with brackets and straps. This form of gutter hanger is built beneath the gutters because half-round gutters can’t be installed directly on the fascia board. Brackets and straps, which wrap around the half-round gutters and provide additional support, are perfect for locations that experience significant rainfall.
Hidden hangers – They are a good alternative if you’re concerned about your home’s exterior appeal. They’re fastened to the fascia board from within your gutters, keeping your facade’s outside appearance consistent while hiding them from view.
Make a strip-miter junction at the corner
A strip miter — a 3-inch-wide strip of aluminum — should be used to cover the connection between two lengths of gutter at each corner. Wrap the metal strip tightly around the gutter’s underside. Pop rivets or sheet-metal screws are used to secure it. Using snips, cut a triangular part off the top of the strip miter, and then fold the two flaps down around the gutter’s top edge. A high-quality siliconized caulk can also be used to make this junction more watertight.
Gutter Sections Should be Attached to the Ground
When the gutter system’s pieces are assembled on the ground, it’s easier for a you or your gutter contractor to install it on your roof. After your new gutters are installed on your roof, you can then make adjustments.
Cut downspout holes
Mark the location of the downspout on the low end of the gutter with a downspout outlet. To accomplish this, flip the gutter over and set the outlet on top. Mark the downspout hole on the gutter by tracing around the inside of the outlet. Drill a 1/4-inch-diameter hole through the circular outline’s center. Turn the gutter over and use a 4-inch-diameter hole saw chucked into a drill to cut the downspout hole. (You can alternatively cut the hole with a hammer and a cold chisel.)
Installing Downspouts with Screws Instead of Rivets
Screws are easier to remove than rivets, so you or your contractors can clear obstructions from gutters more quickly. Use pre-painted screws that match the rest of your facade to avoid the screws interfering with your home’s outside decor.
Crimping Ends of the Elbows and Downspouts Face Down
The crimped ends of gutter elbows and downspouts are always facing down to prevent water from leaking through the joints.
Proper Sealant Application
Before applying a substantial amount of sealant to the seams, you or your gutter contractor should wipe the gutter sections dry. The sealant prevents rainwater from leaking through gaps between gutter pieces and it also waterproofs your gutters. Keep in mind that the sealant on the seams connecting your gutters may deteriorate with time, so you’ll need to have a gutter specialist reapply it from time to time.
Construction Debris Removal
Cleaning up construction debris after installing your new gutters is normal practice for you or every gutter contractor.
Include Your Gutters in Your Home’s Exterior Design
Cutting away the downspout outlet removes any unattractive seams or joints from your new gutters, giving them a more polished appearance. If you’re concerned about the influence of your gutter system on your home’s curb appeal, copper gutters can be a good option. Copper is a high-end metal that requires little care, is extremely durable, and has a timeless aesthetic appeal. Copper gutters, which are popular in historic and high-end homes, may add a touch of sophistication to any home’s exterior. The only disadvantage is the high cost.
Consider seamless gutter installation if you want more inexpensive, aesthetically beautiful gutters. Seamless gutters, as the name implies, are free of unsightly seams and joints, giving them a more streamlined, elegant appearance.
Remember, you should always get professional advice on the best plan for your property to ensure that your gutters are cleaned on a regular basis.
EcoShield Roofing specializes in roof replacements and repair for metal and shingle roofs. We are a roofing business with all the correct credentials and the required local and state licenses to get your job done right.
We also offer roof repair and gutter installation to ensure that your roof continues to work properly for years to come. To get started on your new roof, schedule a free estimate now!